A traditional clack mill (horizontal watermill) featuring rugged dry-stone walls built in pink granite by a narrow, rocky stream. The mill is situated in the wild, treeless landscape of Muckle Roe, an island off Shetland Mainland. In the background, the waters of the sheltered bay of North Ham are visible, framed by the costal cliffs under a wide sky.

The Hams Mill

If it is not brochs, it is clack mills. On Shetland, you cannot seem to avoid one or the other, which is really no bad thing.

This one sits at North Ham on the spectacular coast of Muckle Roe. “Ham” comes from the Norse for harbour. A weatherworn signpost points the way, just about legible if you squint hard enough.

The interior of a roofless, ruinous horizontal watermill (clack mill) constructed from thick pink granite blocks. On the uneven working floor, a pair of original circular millstones (grinding stones) remain, though the wooden fittings and thatched roof have long since decayed. The rugged, dry-stone walls frame a view of the wild, treeless Shetland landscape outside.
Hams Mill with its millstones and concrete lintel

The pink granite ruins speak of Shetland’s quietly stubborn character. Forget the vast communal mills of the British mainland. These horizontal watermills were something altogether more personal — built by crofters, for crofters, serving just a handful of families at a time. The ultimate in self-reliance.

The design is the classic “Norse” form, a tradition stretching back centuries. Inside the roofless walls, the last pair of small grinding stones still lie on the floor, no longer in their original position but present nonetheless. Then something rather surprising catches the eye: a concrete lintel, also on the floor, evidence of repairs carried out sometime in the early twentieth century.

That small block of concrete tells quite a story. Medieval technology, still being patched up and put to use long after it had vanished almost everywhere else in Britain. On Shetland, old things tend to last.

Source: Historic Environment Scotland. “North Ham, horizontal mill north east of Town Loch, Muckle Roe, Shetland North.” Ancient Monuments , https://ancientmonuments.uk/126345-north-hamhorizontal-mill-north-east-of-town-lochmuckle-roe-shetland-north-ward.


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