Out & About …

… on the North York Moors, or wherever I happen to be.

Rosedale East

The fledgling has returned. ‘Reading week’ he says. Half term by any other name. A suggestion: “do you fancy going to the Lion Inn tomorrow? I’ll go on my bike and meet you there”. So I find myself in Rosedale for the second time in four days. But a different Rosedale with the Inn in cloud; drizzling and cold. Winter has come.

I took the easy option of following the course of the branch railway to the Rosedale East Mines, contouring around the head of the dale. Popular with mountain bikers, it’s slightly downhill, a 1 in 50 gradient. The line closed in 1929. Dead centre in the photo can be seen the New Calcining Kilns and in the far distance the Old Kilns. Far left are High Baring cottages, cheap housing for the miners. Closer, in the foreground are what remains of the Black Houses. A pair of railway workers two storey cottages that were coated in bitumen to improve their weatherproofing. Hence the name. The ruins you see are merely a lean-to wash house.

Rosedale really is an interesting dale, the industrial archaeology is fascinating but it’s a sad reminder of what we humans are doing to our planet. We exhaust the natural resources and desecrate the planet with our industrialisation, leaving nature to pick up the pieces. The ironstone has certainly brought prosperity to the dale and beyond to Teesside and the North East. 80 years on the wealth has now vanished and instead of an idyllic pristine valley we are left with the scars. But we live with the scars of the past however unsightly.

A North York Moors National Park initiative, This Exploited Land, has been created to conserve the ironstone heritage. It has a funding of £3.75 million which sounds a lot but probably won’t go far. Work has begun, repairing a landslip to the railway in front of the Old Kilns and stabilising the culvert at Reeking Gill.


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4 responses to “Rosedale East”

  1. Tony Greenwood avatar

    Hi There. Great blog as usual and an interesting link between your view and the history.
    I am interested in what you have said about the Black Houses. I am doing research into my local area, I now live in Lancashire, although originally from Middlesbrough, and have some reports of a long gone cottage, known as Tar Hall. I have wondered where that name came from, and your point about coating cottages in Bitumen could be a clue. It was not a railways workers cottage though, more a Handloom Weavers cottage, that housed miners from the close-by moorland mines.
    Just across the moors is Black Jacks, another miner’s cottage and a small farm. I know who Jack was, but could his cottage be coated in Bitumen?
    A starting point on this Industrial architecture would be great, thanks.

    1. Fhithich avatar
      Fhithich

      Tony, sorry I haven’t come across mention of a Tar Hall but I’ll keep my ears open. Never heard of Black Jacks either, do you have a grid reference?

      1. Tony Greenwood avatar
        Tony Greenwood

        These are local cottages to me on the West Pennine Moors. I was trying to find the origin of the names… but no luck. The idea of coating a cottage with bitumen was new to me. I wondered how did you find out about that architectural marvel?

        Actually. neither of the names of the Winter Hill cottages I refer to are on the maps, even the OS 1st edition, we know from local stories and Census!

  2. Fhithich avatar
    Fhithich

    Ah, I see. References to the Black Houses are found in many sources:

    Hayes, R.H. & J.G. Rutter. “Rosedale Mines and Railway”. Scarborough Archaeological and Historical Society. Research Report No. 9 Reprinted 1991. Page 22.

    Tuffs, Peter. “Catalogue of Cleveland Ironstone Mines”. Cleveland Ironstone Series 1996. Page 47.

    But the specific mention of bitumen coated walls I found in Simon Chapman’s booklet “Rosedale Mines and Railway in Old Pictures Volume 4”. 2007. Page 21/22.

    Simon is a walking encyclopedia of all things to do with the ironstone extraction industry in the Cleveland area.

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