A wide shot of TrĂ igh Iar on North Uist, with a vast expanse of white sand stretching from the foreground to the distant shoreline. The turquoise-green sea meets the sand on the left, with gentle waves visible. On the right, grassy dunes with hints of brown vegetation rise up from the beach. The sky is a mix of bright blue with scattered white, fluffy clouds, and darker, heavier clouds on the horizon, particularly on the right side of the image. A few dark rocks are visible in the water further out, and the distant coastline is low-lying.

Balranald: A Crofted Landscape, Shaped by Struggle

Our final day next to the RSPB Balranald nature reserve in North Uist, extended by two days thanks to Calmac Ferries. No complaints. Balranald has been generous — rich in wildlife, history, and atmosphere.

The reserve stretches across rocky headlands and quiet bays, with dunes, machair, grasslands, saltmarshes and inland lochs. It was set up in 1966 through agreements with the landowners: the Secretary of State for Scotland, the North Uist Estate Trustees, and the Church of Scotland Trustees. The RSPB does not own the land but works with the crofters of Hougharry, Tigharry, Goular and Balranald. Together they maintain this patchwork of habitats that draw in migrant birds travelling between Africa and the Arctic.

In the 18th and 19th centuries, the clan system collapsed and the Clearances arrived. Whole villages were emptied to make way for sheep. Hougharry once stood on the headland of Aird an Runair. It was cleared and rebuilt up the coast.

After the First World War, many returning Scottish soldiers expected land in return for their service — land they believed had been promised. When it did not materialise, they took matters into their own hands. Across the Highlands and Islands, veterans seized estates in what became known as “land raids.” In Balranald, 1920, twelve men staged the country’s largest raid to date. They also made the mistake of informing the laird they would arrive at 10am. They ended up in prison.1The Balranald Raid, 1920. https://www.tobarandualchais.co.uk/track/18165?l=en2Land Raids. Crofting Collection  – Outer Hebrides Heritage Services. https://outerhebridesheritage.org.uk/collection/crofting/

These protests were born of anger and betrayal. Prime Minister David Lloyd George had reportedly offered “four acres and a cow” to build a “land fit for heroes.” The result was the 1919 Land Settlement (Scotland) Act. It gave the state power to buy up estates, divide them into crofts, and force landowners to accept tenants.3How war was followed by land raids in Scotland. 21 September 2019. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-highlands-islands-49741339 Landowners fought back with every trick they could find, but eventually fifty people received land at Balranald. Others followed at Tigharry and Hougharry.4Inverness Courier – Tuesday 21 December 1920 https://www.britishnewspaperarchive.co.uk/viewer/bl/0000446/19201221/103/00065Oban Times and Argyllshire Advertiser – Saturday 03 September 1921 https://www.britishnewspaperarchive.co.uk/viewer/bl/0000462/19210903/083/0006?noTouch=true


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