Seal watching at Loch Eynort, but unfortunately, I didn’t have my telephoto lens with me. As a result, the seals’ heads appeared as mere dots amidst the vast expanse of water.
However, further up the loch, nestled in a delightful wooded spot, stand the remains of two churches. The smaller one, likely older in age, is dedicated to St Maelrubha, an Irish saint from the 7th century. Local tradition has it that he met his untimely demise at the hands of Danish Vikings. As for the larger church, it once housed a medieval font and an intricately carved cross shaft. Regrettably, both of these valuable artifacts now reside in museums located in Edinburgh1‘Skye, Eynort, St Maelrubha’s Churches, St Michael’s Font | Canmore’. 2023. Canmore.org.uk <https://canmore.org.uk/site/99185/skye-eynort-st-maelrubhas-churches-st-michaels-font> [accessed 7 June 2023]2‘Skye, Eynort, St Maelrubha’s Churches, Churchyard | Canmore’. 2023. Canmore.org.uk <https://canmore.org.uk/site/100552/skye-eynort-st-maelrubhas-churches-churchyard> [accessed 7 June 2023].
The smaller ruin houses intriguing yet unreadable memorials from the early 18th century, dedicated to the MacLeods of Talisker. Their final journeys were taken by boat, with their entry to the church facilitated by a gateway leading from the shore3‘Skye, Eynort, St Maelrubha’s Churches | Canmore’. 2023. Canmore.org.uk <https://canmore.org.uk/site/11030/skye-eynort-st-maelrubhas-churches> [accessed 7 June 2023].
One gravestone that caught my eye was that of Sophia Lavia Cowes. She was born in Buenos Aires and passed away in Salen on the Isle of Mull in 1919. Sophia was the wife of John Macdonald M.D., who was described as “late of Buenos Aires” and had died in 1879. From South America to an island off the west coast of Scotland, she must have a story to tell.
But, despite my efforts, I couldn’t find any information about Sophia on the internet. However, I did stumble upon the “Macdonald Family Papers” held by the Royal College of Physicians and Surgeons of Glasgow Archives4‘Macdonald Family Papers: Dr John Macdonald (1841-1879) and Dr Reginald Macdonald (1877-1953)’. 1989. Jisc.ac.uk <https://archiveshub.jisc.ac.uk/search/archives/784fca44-ebc6-33ac-b714-973925f4fdf9> [accessed 7 June 2023].
John Macdonald, born in 1841, was the son of Alexander Macdonald from Lyndale on the Isle of Skye. He received his education in Glasgow and Paris, completing his medical degree at Glasgow in 1862. He obtained his license from the Faculty of Physicians and Surgeons in 1862 and became a fellow in 1863. After his qualifications, he established himself as a practitioner in Buenos Aires, where he served as a visiting surgeon at the British Hospital and also joined the Argentine Army5‘University of Glasgow :: International Story :: John MacDonald’. 2014. Gla.ac.uk <https://internationalstory.gla.ac.uk/person/?id=WH13435> [accessed 7 June 2023].
During the yellow fever outbreak in Buenos Aires in 1871, John Macdonald demonstrated exceptional dedication, contributing significantly to the relief efforts. Unfortunately, he contracted the fever twice, causing irreversible damage to his health. In October 1879, due to his deteriorating condition, he returned to the United Kingdom. Tragically, he passed away on the Isle of Skye on 7th December, 1879.
His son — I assume this was indeed the relationship — Reginald Norman Macdonald was born in Buenos Aires in 1877 and was educated at Anderson’s College in Glasgow, where he pursued a medical degree and successfully obtained the Triple Qualification in 1903. Following his studies, he assumed the role of Surgeon Superintendent for the Transvaal Government Chamber of Mines Importation Agency. Around 1911, he made his way back to Scotland and took up residence on Argyll Street in Oban. Eventually, he relocated to Salen on the Isle of Mull, which ties in with Sophia’s place of death, who was presumably his mother.
- 1‘Skye, Eynort, St Maelrubha’s Churches, St Michael’s Font | Canmore’. 2023. Canmore.org.uk <https://canmore.org.uk/site/99185/skye-eynort-st-maelrubhas-churches-st-michaels-font> [accessed 7 June 2023]
- 2‘Skye, Eynort, St Maelrubha’s Churches, Churchyard | Canmore’. 2023. Canmore.org.uk <https://canmore.org.uk/site/100552/skye-eynort-st-maelrubhas-churches-churchyard> [accessed 7 June 2023]
- 3‘Skye, Eynort, St Maelrubha’s Churches | Canmore’. 2023. Canmore.org.uk <https://canmore.org.uk/site/11030/skye-eynort-st-maelrubhas-churches> [accessed 7 June 2023]
- 4‘Macdonald Family Papers: Dr John Macdonald (1841-1879) and Dr Reginald Macdonald (1877-1953)’. 1989. Jisc.ac.uk <https://archiveshub.jisc.ac.uk/search/archives/784fca44-ebc6-33ac-b714-973925f4fdf9> [accessed 7 June 2023]
- 5‘University of Glasgow :: International Story :: John MacDonald’. 2014. Gla.ac.uk <https://internationalstory.gla.ac.uk/person/?id=WH13435> [accessed 7 June 2023]
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