Dubh-Sgeir Mhor — The Black Rock

Breathe in that salty air! This view is across the narrow channel separating Eilean a’Chaoll from the Talmine mainland. The rugged foreshore displays vibrant yellow lichen and delicate pink thrift clinging to the rocks. Beyond, the Atlantic Ocean extends towards the distant Eilean nan Gaill, or Rabbit Islands. But in between, there lies the foreboding skerry known as Dubh-Sgeir Mhor — The Black Rocks.

On the 8th of January, 1945, 42 men, the entire crew of S.S. Ashbury, perished when the ship ran aground on Dubh-Sgeir Mhor. 27 bodies washed ashore and were taken to the mortuary in Thurso, where 14 were interred in war graves in the cemetery there, while the rest were claimed by their next of kin. 15 members of the crew were never found. The sea is their grave.

A formal investigation into the sinking of the Ashbury concluded that the ship was lost due to striking the rocks under stress in heavy weather. The vessel could not maintain a safe course in her light condition with only one anchor and a short cable; the report also emphasised that if not for the wartime conditions, the Ashbury would not have been considered fit to sail from Lochewe.

This was the greatest loss of a merchant ship during the Second World War in an incident not caused by enemy action.

Elsewhere on our walk, we found some Scottish primroses. These pretty flowers are native to very small coastal areas in the far north of Scotland. We have come across them once before, on Orkney.

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