• An Unofficial Path Gets Official Attention

    An Unofficial Path Gets Official Attention

    Ah, one for the history books. Last year, the main path up Roseberry’s eastern flank was given a facelift, and now it is this desire path’s turn. The one by the fence that skirts the hill’s south-east side, linking the Cleveland Way with the Folly Field. The upgrade might happen this year, or perhaps next—what…

  • The Skiddaw Hermit : Eccentricity on a Mountaintop

    The Skiddaw Hermit : Eccentricity on a Mountaintop

    Many of you have likely heard of Millican Dalton, the so-called hermit and adventurer of Castle Crag in Borrowdale. In the 1920s and 30s, he managed to carve out a reputation by living in a cave and offering guided walks and canoe trips for tourists seeking a bit of excitement. A hermit in name only,…

  • The Bleak Back o’ Skiddaw

    The Bleak Back o’ Skiddaw

    It‘s been a wet and windy day in the Lakes, so naturally very little was accomplished. Instead, here is a photo from yesterday. The “back o’ Skiddaw” offers little to marvel at—a few sheepfolds dot an otherwise featureless landscape. Any rock that dares to stand out gets christened and turned into a boundary marker. This…

  • The Colours of a Rainy Dawn

    The Colours of a Rainy Dawn

    “Red sky at morning” is not always the “shepherd’s warning” or, for that matter, the “sailor’s warning.” Sometimes, just sometimes, it promises a pleasant day for the shepherd and a dry fleece for his sheep. Naturally, so the shepherds say, this depends entirely on whether the red sky “goes over” or stays sulking in the…

  • Storms, Sunlight, and a Trespass to Remember

    Storms, Sunlight, and a Trespass to Remember

    Given the grim weather forecast of strong winds, we opted for a walk that would not risk life and limb. The summit of Latrigg offered a theatrical view: a single beam of sunlight, no doubt feeling very pleased with itself, pierced through dark clouds to spotlight a few houses near Keswick, with Bleaberry Fell lurking…

  • Knock Pike and Memories of Youth and Reckless Ambition

    Knock Pike and Memories of Youth and Reckless Ambition

    A brief pause en route to a few days of damp splendour in the Lakes. This is Knock Pike, an outlier on the Pennine chain. A 1950 article in the Penrith Observer caught my attention. It detailed the results of a “Guides Race,” a professional fell race to the summit of this and back, starting…

  • Temperature Inversions and Timetable Errors

    Temperature Inversions and Timetable Errors

    A glorious morning on the hills south of Guisborough, the so-called top of Belmangate. While the town wallowed in cold and damp misery, those above the temperature inversion were treated to the breathtaking sight of Eston Nab and Airy Hill rising like islands from the clouds, with a diffused Brocken spectre thrown in for good…

  • A Festive Hack or a Public Nuisance? My Meeting with the Hunt

    A Festive Hack or a Public Nuisance? My Meeting with the Hunt

    Ah, the Boxing Day Hunt – that charming spectacle where tradition meets a total disregard for everyone else on the bridleway. How delightful to encounter the alpha redcoat, who generously allowed me some space before the rest of the merry field boxed me against the fence. Nose to tail they rode, oblivious to the fact…

  • Tudor Christmas: Twelve Days of Saints and Swans

    Tudor Christmas: Twelve Days of Saints and Swans

    Up at an unholy hour to climb up Roseberry Topping and watch the sunrise. We were not alone. The place was packed, because apparently nothing says “Christmas spirit” like elbowing strangers on a hilltop. In Tudor times, you would not have found the masses up here. They would have been at Mass, fulfilling their religious…

  • A Slog up Roseberry Topping and a Nod to Pagan Roots

    A Slog up Roseberry Topping and a Nod to Pagan Roots

    I could claim it was a brisk dash up Roseberry Topping this morning, but in truth, it was more of a plodding trudge. Perhaps it only felt that way because I foolishly dressed for winter, not realising it would be unseasonably warm for Christmas Eve. This is the view from the summit, looking down on…

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