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An island dichotomy and the fate of the Acquire
Low tide at Lyndale Point, minding the entrance to Loch Snizort. The two islands, Eilean Mòr, and Eliean Beag, plain as day meaning ‘big island‘ and ‘little island.‘ No prizes for guessing which one’s which. Another roaring hot day with just the merest smidgen of a breeze. Not so back in the morning of the…
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Brodach a Stòir
We had to do it. After four days of wandering around deserted peninsulas and remote coasts, observing seals and peregrine falcons, we finally embarked on the most popular walk on Skye—the Old Man of Storr. Even an early start couldn’t help us avoid the crowds, as everyone flocked to the rocky knoll that provided the…
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Boc na Caillich
Exploring new areas of Scotland never fails to captivate me, especially when I come across on the map Gaelic names for its landscapes features. They possess a descriptive quality that surpasses English or even Scots names. Among these, the term ‘Caillich’ caught my attention, which I knew represented an old woman. However, it was ‘boc’…
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Clanranald’s Revenge
A scorching walk to Rubha Bhatairnis, or Waternish Point, that offered breathtaking views across the remarkably serene Little Minch to Harris. Notice the distinct columns of cumulus clouds gracefully rising above the distant hills. The Hebridean Sea has served as a popular sailing route since ancient times, and Waternish Point, which juts far out into…
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Another final battle between the Macdonalds and MacLeods
The A863 road to Dunvegan, where it crosses the head of Loch Caroy, is quite speedy and most drivers accelerate to maintain their momentum as they ascend the Harlosh Peninsula. Drivers therefore will overlook the two significant stone mounds on the left, situated above the brown moorland. According to tradition, this magnificent location was the…
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Tràigh a’ Chorail
We last visited Tràigh a’ Chorail, also known as Coral Bay, in 1998, exactly twenty-five years ago. I can vaguely recall that visit, with me carrying a one-year-old on my back. However, I can’t seem to recall the stony track we encountered today, which has made it suitable for cycling the final two kilometres. Instead,…
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Confrontation at Glendale—Gunboats, Troops, and the Resolute Crofters
My knowledge of the Highland Clearances assumed it began the 18th century and pretty much over by the mid 19th century. But it really ended with the Napier Commission and the passing of the Crofters Holdings (Scotland) Act in 1886, ensuring security of tenure for crofters. My understanding of the Highland Clearances was that it…
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Macleod’s Tables
Once the ridge of the Black Cullin is behind you, your eyes are drawn to Macleod’s Tables, Healabhal Mhor and Healabhal Bheag. These distinctive peaks stand as isolated remnants of the vast basalt plateau that once covered the isle of Skye. The name “Healabhal” is believed to originate from the Scandinavian term “helgi fjall,” meaning…
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St Maelrubha’s Churches, Eynort
Seal watching at Loch Eynort, but unfortunately, I didn’t have my telephoto lens with me. As a result, the seals’ heads appeared as mere dots amidst the vast expanse of water. However, further up the loch, nestled in a delightful wooded spot, stand the remains of two churches. The smaller one, likely older in age,…
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Fiskavaig
Another day spent leisurely pootling the tranquil narrow lanes of the Minginish Peninsula. This is Fiskavaig, a scattered community that comprises a mix of renovated houses, contemporary Scandinavian-style new builds, and the occasional working croft. In the near distance is Ardtreck, featuring its captivating galleried dùn. In fact, if you examine that photograph closely, on…
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