The tall, cylindrical, dark-stone Waterloo Monument stands prominently against a bright blue sky on the grassy hill of Peniel Heugh. A path leads up to the monument through the foreground, which is covered in long, dry grass. A wooden post-and-wire fence runs along the right side of the path, and a person is visible walking towards the base of the tower.

Waterloo Monument, Peniel Heugh

Into the Scottish Borders, and to Peniel Heugh—a modest hill of 237 metres, though it carries itself as if it were Everest. It is, I am told, a volcanic plug of olivine microgabbro, which sounds far grander than the dark lump it appears to be above the village of Ancrum.

At its summit stands the Waterloo Monument, a 150-foot column of whinstone so extravagant it could only have been dreamt up by a Marquess1Glasgow Constitutional – 26 July 1851. Teviotdale—From Ruberslaw to the Jed. https://www.britishnewspaperarchive.co.uk/viewer/bl/0001229/18510726/036/0002. Built to immortalise Wellington’s victory, it bears the date 1835, which seems a touch tardy given that the battle itself was wrapped up in 1815. My confusion was short-lived; Wikipedia, ever the patient schoolmaster, revealed that the original tower had collapsed in an excess of enthusiasm, and this was the rebuilt version—courtesy of a different architect, presumably one with steadier hands.


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