Tag: history

  • Fire, Fumes, and Fatality: Scugdale’s Calcining Kiln

    Fire, Fumes, and Fatality: Scugdale’s Calcining Kiln

    In the early 19th century, Scugdale was an unremarkable little dale where people busied themselves with weaving and bleaching fine linens. The local economy depended on at least four water mills, all fed by the ever-reliable Scugdale Beck. That is, until 1857, when progress arrived in the form of a two-mile railway branch between Swainby…

  • Cocken Kirke: A History of Threats, Mumbling, and Collapse

    Cocken Kirke: A History of Threats, Mumbling, and Collapse

    A day spent clearing up yet more storm damage with the National Trust at Bransdale. Which storm was it? Storm Éowyn, perhaps? It is hard to say; they all blur together after a while. Despite a dusting of snow on the high moors overnight, the weather has been suspiciously well-behaved. Lunch on the green at…

  • Lord Raby’s Smelting Scheme: The Story of Gaunless Mill

    Lord Raby’s Smelting Scheme: The Story of Gaunless Mill

    The weather has taken a turn for the worse, so a modest walk it is, to gaze upon the Gaunless Mill Chimney at Copley. This lone, crumbling relic of Teesdale’s lead smelting past stands in quiet defiance of time and indifference. The Gaunless Mill, despite being on a tributary of the Wear rather than the…

  • The Bishop’s Stones

    The Bishop’s Stones

    Up on the bleak moorlands of the North Pennines today, straddling the borders of Durham, Cumbria, and Northumberland. A landscape of peat groughs and bogs thick with sphagnum moss, stirring memories—not necessarily unpleasant, just good times when I was fit enough to fly over this stuff without hesitating. Judging by the abundance of medicated grit…

  • Harehope Burn Lead Mine

    Harehope Burn Lead Mine

    What a thrill it is to stumble upon the unexpected. A bit of history, a scenic spot, or perhaps a fleeting moment with nature. Weardale is unfamiliar to me, and my expectations were suitably low for the hills south of Wolsingham. So imagine my joy when we found the remains of Harehope Burn Lead Mine,…

  • Kildale Moor Revisited

    Kildale Moor Revisited

    Ah yes, for the second day in a row, I found myself wandering around Kildale Moor, once again staring down at Sleddale Slack—though, to keep things fresh, I chose a slightly different vantage point. Variety is the spice of life, after all. Off to the right, perched on the high ground, is Percy Rigg, home…

  • Kildale Moor: Cairnfields and Forgotten Paths

    Kildale Moor: Cairnfields and Forgotten Paths

    The sky is a washed-out blue, untroubled by clouds. Even in their dreary winter shades, the moors still manage to look grand. I find myself on Kildale Moor, a vast expanse littered with prehistoric cairnfields, settlements, and funerary monuments. Allegedly. In reality, one must squint to discern any such features. The standing stone, however, is…

  • The Teachers’ Bridge

    The Teachers’ Bridge

    A comment on an old post prompted me to take this photograph. It shows the River Leven meandering lazily through what was once the grounds of the Friends’ School in Great Ayton. The water tumbles over a small weir on the left, adding a touch of drama to an otherwise tranquil scene, while the so-called…

  • Urra Moor on Pancake Day

    Urra Moor on Pancake Day

    Up on Urra Moor this morning, the sun made an appearance, but the wind still had a bite to it. This is the view across Bilsdale to Hasty Bank. If you strain your eyes, you might just make out Roseberry Topping in the far distance. I suppose I must acknowledge that it is Pancake Day—though…

  • A Costly Collop — The Ubiquitous Smoke of Burning Heather

    A Costly Collop — The Ubiquitous Smoke of Burning Heather

    A view south-east, straight into a hazy sun, down Lonsdale and across to Kildale Moor. The scene is, of course, marred by a hibernal plume of smoke from the burning of the heather, because no landscape is complete without an artificial smog. But enough about that. Today is the penultimate opportunity for carnivorous indulgence before…