Category: Scotland
-
Erisco — a deserted township
The deserted township of Erisco, lies on the shore of Duntulm Bay, is sheltered by the long barrier of Tulm Island, and is overlooked by the medieval Duntulm Castle. It is a kilometre or so south of Rubha Hunish, the most northern point of Skye. Erisco was considered good land for growing some crops of…
-
Loch Cuithir and the diatomite industry
What had fascinated me was the peculiar wording on the O.S. map, indicating the presence of a “Dismantled Railway,” a six kilometres stretch from the Inver Tote coastline, winding its way towards Loch Cuithir, nestled beneath the formidable Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh Ruaidh, aptly dubbed ‘the hill of the red fox.’ As it turned out, Loch…
-
Quiraing
After a solid 20 days devoid of any drop of rain, except for a quick overnight sprinkle at Dunvegan, it looks like we’re in for a change in the weather. So, we thought we had better head for the hills, because who knows if we’ll even catch a glimpse of them tomorrow. The Trotternish Ridge…
-
An island dichotomy and the fate of the Acquire
Low tide at Lyndale Point, minding the entrance to Loch Snizort. The two islands, Eilean Mòr, and Eliean Beag, plain as day meaning ‘big island‘ and ‘little island.‘ No prizes for guessing which one’s which. Another roaring hot day with just the merest smidgen of a breeze. Not so back in the morning of the…
-
Brodach a Stòir
We had to do it. After four days of wandering around deserted peninsulas and remote coasts, observing seals and peregrine falcons, we finally embarked on the most popular walk on Skye—the Old Man of Storr. Even an early start couldn’t help us avoid the crowds, as everyone flocked to the rocky knoll that provided the…
-
Boc na Caillich
Exploring new areas of Scotland never fails to captivate me, especially when I come across on the map Gaelic names for its landscapes features. They possess a descriptive quality that surpasses English or even Scots names. Among these, the term ‘Caillich’ caught my attention, which I knew represented an old woman. However, it was ‘boc’…
-
Clanranald’s Revenge
A scorching walk to Rubha Bhatairnis, or Waternish Point, that offered breathtaking views across the remarkably serene Little Minch to Harris. Notice the distinct columns of cumulus clouds gracefully rising above the distant hills. The Hebridean Sea has served as a popular sailing route since ancient times, and Waternish Point, which juts far out into…
-
Another final battle between the Macdonalds and MacLeods
The A863 road to Dunvegan, where it crosses the head of Loch Caroy, is quite speedy and most drivers accelerate to maintain their momentum as they ascend the Harlosh Peninsula. Drivers therefore will overlook the two significant stone mounds on the left, situated above the brown moorland. According to tradition, this magnificent location was the…
-
Tràigh a’ Chorail
We last visited Tràigh a’ Chorail, also known as Coral Bay, in 1998, exactly twenty-five years ago. I can vaguely recall that visit, with me carrying a one-year-old on my back. However, I can’t seem to recall the stony track we encountered today, which has made it suitable for cycling the final two kilometres. Instead,…
-
Confrontation at Glendale—Gunboats, Troops, and the Resolute Crofters
My knowledge of the Highland Clearances assumed it began the 18th century and pretty much over by the mid 19th century. But it really ended with the Napier Commission and the passing of the Crofters Holdings (Scotland) Act in 1886, ensuring security of tenure for crofters. My understanding of the Highland Clearances was that it…