A few days of nostalgia at Rose Castle, once part of the Monk Coniston Estate and now within the National Trust’s Tarn Hows property. There is a certain sadness in the loss of its quirks, though not for the old toilet—the one-holer, the thunderbox. Electricity and piped spring water are welcome signs of progress. The original spring, however, is now entombed beneath a heavy slab of slate.
No longer do damp socks and other bedraggled garments hang from the ceiling. The old Welsh dresser, once crammed with jigsaws and games, has vanished, leaving a void in its place.
There is no wi-fi, of course, and 4G reception is questionable. The walls have been adorned in that inoffensive shade of National Trust pale green, but at least they have spared the flagstone floors from carpeting.
Guests are no longer expected to bring their own sleeping bag—fresh linen and duvets are now provided. However, the National Trust, in its wisdom, tells us it has decided not to supply champagne flutes or an iron and ironing board. That will certainly be a hardship.
The open fire has been replaced by a wood-burning stove, the Muncher, which theoretically heats other rooms via a back boiler. In practice, it devours an alarming quantity of wood while most of the heat escapes up the chimney. A new quirk for Rose Castle.
In the past, collecting and chopping wood was an integral part of keeping warm, with the unspoken rule that one should replace what one used. This was rarely accomplished.
Tarn Hows itself has seen better days. Storms and the felling of diseased larches have left their mark, opening up new views while reducing others to devastation. The tarn was partially frozen, with a delicate layer of cats’ ice. Less appealing was the proliferation of flimsy benches, reminiscent of those found in garden centres.
The cottage probably dates from the mid-to-late 19th century, built on the footprint of an earlier structure. With its crow-stepped gables and distinctive chimney stack, it was likely designed by the estate owner as an ornamental feature for the hillside.
Still a lovely place.