Coire na Creiche

This north-west facing corrie of the Cullin hills is known as ‘the hollow of the spoil’ in Gaelic: Coire na Creiche. It earned this name due to its reputation as a preferred hideout for those seeking refuge after successful raids. However, our exploration yielded no valuable spoils; instead, we stumbled upon a trashed tent flysheet and a scattered collection of plastic bottles.

It was in Coire na Creiche that a clash occurred in 1601 between the Macdonalds and the Macleods, likely marking the final major skirmish among the clans that had been waged in Skye for centuries¹‘Skye, Coire Na Creiche | Canmore’. 2023. Canmore.org.uk <https://canmore.org.uk/site/11233/skye-coire-na-creiche> [accessed 5 June 2023]. The renowned Rory Mor, chief of the Macleods, was absent when Macdonald and his clan invaded their lands. Alexander, Macleod’s brother, gathered his clansmen and established a camp in this corrie. The following day, the Macdonalds arrived, sparking a battle that persisted until nightfall. Although the Macdonalds emerged as the victors, they suffered significant losses and took Alexander along with thirty prominent Macleod figures as prisoners. Perhaps, had Rory Mor been present, wielding his mighty two-handed sword, the outcome of the day might have unfolded differently. This corrie has witnessed the tumultuous passions of men, its reverberating echoes filled with the cries of war²MacCulloch, J.A. “The Misty Isle of Skye”. Page 146. Eneas Mackay. 1936..

But Coire na Creiche has gained a place in the tourist guides as a result of its Fairy Pools, which are now widely marketed as one of Skye’s most iconic natural attractions. The Fairy Pools are a captivating collection of a dozen or so waterfalls and pools along the Allt Coir’ a’ Mhadaidh. To accommodate the substantial influx of tourists, a large car park has been established, capable of accommodating thousands of visitors. Additionally, a gravel pathway has been constructed alongside the stream. Gravel which must be particularly troublesome for those who choose to explore the area while wearing sandals. Unfortunately, just last month, a tragic incident occurred when a young man slipped on a rock and fell into the water, resulting in a fatality³Brady, Jon. 2023. ‘Man Who Died at Fairy Pools on Skye Is Named as Pals Pay Tribute’, Daily Record <https://www.dailyrecord.co.uk/news/scottish-news/man-who-died-fairy-pools-30048217> [accessed 5 June 2023].

Perhaps it was the dry start to June we’ve had, but we found the Fairy Pools to be decidedly overrated. I suppose the sheer concentration of pools and cascades over a small stretch is something to behold, but they are no more impressive than what can be found along many mountain becks and burns.

• 1
  ‘Skye, Coire Na Creiche | Canmore’. 2023. Canmore.org.uk <https://canmore.org.uk/site/11233/skye-coire-na-creiche> [accessed 5 June 2023]
• 2
  MacCulloch, J.A. “The Misty Isle of Skye”. Page 146. Eneas Mackay. 1936.
• 3
  Brady, Jon. 2023. ‘Man Who Died at Fairy Pools on Skye Is Named as Pals Pay Tribute’, Daily Record <https://www.dailyrecord.co.uk/news/scottish-news/man-who-died-fairy-pools-30048217> [accessed 5 June 2023]